Saturday 1st December

We headed west and crossed the continental divide at the top of Arthur's Pass, skirting Lake Misery and safely negotiating Deaths Corner. We stopped in Hokitika so Lucinda could buy some jade. The beach there was black sand and deserted. By lunchtime we had reached Franz Joseph. We checked into our lodge before walking to the base of the glacier. At first it was obscured by cloud but then for about ten minutes the view cleared and we could see from the valley to the mountain top. We had time to go back to our room for a rest before heading out to eat.

Friday 30th November

After breakfast we headed out for an all day expedition with our guide, Nicky. We drove up Arthur's Pass stopping to take three walks on the way. The first took us through Beech forest to a waterfall emptying into the Devil's Punchbowl. Later we pushed on higher and stopped for lunch by a mountain stream. The last walk took us through wonderful vegetation including giant buttercups to end at the top of the pass. After a brief rest back at the lodge we set out with Michael for an early evening walk. He took his two sheepdogs, Tess and Megan. Tess is getting on a bit while young Megan tried frantically by herself to surround a petrified looking flock of sheep. The walk took us to the river with its wide gravel bed, through forest and across fields. We saw how the vegetation had adapted to the various environments and to predators and pollinators. We also saw an amazingly rare grasshopper. Another good day concluded with a three course meal and a bottle of wine.

Thursday 29th November

After breakfast we said goodbye to our fabulous hosts, Carol and Bruce, and their dog Harry. Driving through Barry's Bay we stopped at the dairy to buy some cheese. We drove west up into the mountains. It took about 3.5 hours to reach our destination, the Wilderness Lodge at Arthur's Pass. The photo shows the view from our room. After a cup of tea we strolled round the Rainbow Valley walk. Before supper we walked to the sheep farm next door. Neil the farmer used his amazingly talented dogs to round up sheep. We then gave some milk to a new born orphan and fed some greedy older lambs. Into the wool shed next for a sheep shearing demonstration and some convincing propaganda promoting Merino wool. Back to change and then into supper. Sadly lamb was not on the menu..

Wednesday 28th November

We started as has become usual for me, and even sometimes for Lucinda, with a full cooked breakfast. It was a short walk down to the harbour to board the boat for today's trip. The large natural harbour is formed from a volcano crater and is steep sided and narrow. To the north the harbour at Lyttleton (also formed from a crater) which serves Christchurch was hit by the earthquake so cruise ships now put in here in Akaroa. There was one yesterday and a new one today. This means ships boats shuttling all day delivering up to 800 tourists to this town of 650 residents. Many of them waddled their way to waiting coaches which dispersed them to tours, or they sat in the cafes with buns and ice creams. The captain of our little boat soon found the world's smallest and rarest dolphins, the Hector's dolphins. As we drifted along there were one or two near our boat, then more gathered. We then sped up and some 12 dolphins came along for the ride, surfing on our bow wave and leaping out of the water in front of us - magnificent. We were shown some of the fascinating rock formations as we headed to the mouth of the harbour and the open sea. On the way back we saw cormorants and fur seals, and a distant view of two tiny bedraggled blue penguins (the same as Australian fairy penguins). We then walked to the monument commemorating Captain Owen Stanley of HMS Britomart who, in August 1840, raised the Union Jack to demonstrate British sovereignty 6 days before the French arrived with their claim. After all that we walked up the hill behind the town. It was unremittingly uphill for about an hour but gave us stunning views over the harbour below. We stumbled back down in time for drinks and yet another wonderful meal.

Tuesday 27th November

We drove south to Christchurch. An earthquake in February 2011 devastated the centre. A shopping centre constructed from containers was placed where part of the old shopping centre had collapsed. The cathedral was also destroyed. After lunch we continued our drive to the Banks Peninsula formed from the remains of three volcanic eruptions. Our B&B is in Akaroa. The town was initially colonised by the French. The photo shows the view from our room. We had wine with our hosts Carol and Bruce before heading out for yet another superb meal in the local Bistro.

Monday 26th November

Today's photo was Lucinda in front of a sperm whale. We drove about 2 hours south to Kaikoura. Half way we stopped at the seal pup colony. All the pups had grown up and disappeared apart from one alone at the waterfall and a sad, bedraggled seal half way up the rocky inlet. Whale watching was a highly professional business. The custom made boats were superb and we sped out secure in our aircraft type seats. This is the best place in the world to see Sperm Whales as the continental shelf drops off into enormous depths a short distance from the shore. These whales typically dive for 45 to 60 minutes and then come to the surface to re-oxygenate and to digest their food. After searching for about an hour a whale was spotted and we closed in on it. After ten minutes it dived but I had my photo. We spotted a second whale on the way back although as far as I was concerned it could have been the first one that had popped back up for another look. I think everyone really enjoyed it apart from one young woman who had turned pale and then green as the boat headed out. She spent her time looking despairingly out at the horizon or had her head in a sick bag. The scenery was stunning with low clouds hanging between the sea and the snow capped mountains. Accommodation was a high class B&B once again complete with stunning view vowed the bay. Another meal out and off to bed.

Sunday 25th November

After breakfast we headed to Picton to get our boat heading out into Queen Charlotte Sound. There were lots of opportunities to take photos of Lucinda in front of stuff. Firstly where we were put ashore at Ship Cove in front of the monument to Captain James Cook commemorating his landing here in 1770. Later it was in front of a Weka, a flightless bird, which lingered looking longingly at the rhubarb cake we had on our walk. We walked 14km from Ship Cove to Furneaux Lodge in 4 hours. The boat picked us up and on the trip back we saw some distant dolphins and supine fur seals. Most of the restaurants in Blenheim were closed so we had a rubbish Chinese before going back to watch New Zealand Has Talent. Sadly there were no dogs left in the competition.

Saturday 24th November

After breakfast we walked round the homestead 's apple orchard. Nelson market was like any market the world over but I did have a delicious ice cream. The drive to Blenheim in the Marlborough wine district took us over mountains and along the coast. We're staying in the butterfly room of the home of John and Robyn Hedges. In the afternoon we went to two of the local vineyards. Before supper we had the wine made from the grapes John and Robyn grow. It is a very special Saint Clair's Block 22 single estate Premium Pinot Noir. At supper we had local lamb and an excellent bottle of not so premium Saint Claire's Pinot Noir.

Friday 23td November

We're staying in yet another sensational place in fantastic accommodation. We have half of a little cottage in the grounds of a private house. This is the view from our window. We walked through the gardens for breakfast this morning. We've just come back from our all day boat trip in Abel Tasman National Park. The scenery was stunning, and the weather perfect. We boarded the tender off a beach and motored up the coast stopping twice to go ashore for walks. Including us there were 7 on board plus Mike the skipper. We did see some seals, a small bedraggled penguin and assorted birds. It would have been perfect if we had seen other wildlife. We got back in time to shower and head out for another superb meal in a local restaurant.

Thursday 22nd November

An early start to get to the airport. Fly to Wellington. Get apples and coral confiscated at customs. Hung around airport until flight to Nelson, north island. Hire car to accommodation, dinner, bed.

Wednesday 21st November

We upped anchor and motored the short distance to Hamilton Marina. Bob and his Barney were there for the handover and debrief. We then took the short shuttle ride to the airport. Our incoming plane was on time but damaged a tyre on landing. Confusion reigned while decisions were made about what to do. Eventually we walked back to the marina to stretch our legs and have an ice cream. When we returned they were replacing the tyres but we got away some six and a half hours late on another plane they had flown up. It was a short shuttle ride to our hotel. Time for a few hours' sleep before going back to the airport.

Tuesday 20th November

We motored round to Whitehaven Beach and then as Lucinda said it was too crowded we went across to Chalkie's Beach. Simon and Robyn looked at the fish on the reef before we set off back west to anchor a short distance from Hamilton Island. Our last night on board and a BBQ of what remained in the fridge.

Monday 19th November

We had brief sightings of a dugong (possibly), a turtle and a stingray. We had to wait until half tide to leave Gulnare and we crept out at 11am and headed east along the bottom end of Whitsunday Island. We anchored in Chance Bay, a total of 11.9nm. On the way in we rescued a big soggy cushion that had floated free from a boat that had ran aground and sunk with just the tip of the bow showing. It was Lucinda's music choice in the evening and we finally opened the baked beans we had been husbanding all trip.

Sunday 18th November

It was time to start heading north. The anchor was stubbornly attached to the seabed but we finally persuaded it free. Once again our course was directly into the wind so we motored the 13.8nm up to Gulnare Inlet to enter on the rising tide. In the afternoon we took the dinghy up to explore the mangroves. There was no obvious place to go ashore. The sunset was magnificent and tonight's music was Robyn's selection. She started with Springstein.

Saturday 17th November

We stayed all day in the anchorage. In the morning we took the dinghy round the corner to the deserted resort and finally figured out how to moor to the jetty. We walked up and out along the airstrip and up to the top of the island. We were rewarded with a 360 degree panorama over the Whitsunday Islands. In the afternoon we failed to find the track on the beach but consoled ourself with wine and nibbles on the sand as the sun went down. We had a great fry up at lunch but still managed burgers on the BBQ in the evening.

Friday 16th November

There was a wonderful crescent moon early in the evening followed by a dark sky into which a heavy sprinkling if stardust had been thrown. In light winds we motored to the civilisation of Hamilton Marina where a one hour stop allowed us to stock up the stores, refill the water tanks and buy an ice cream. We then sailed further south to Lindeman Island and were at anchor in Plantation Bay in time for a late lunch. A total of 18.5nm was covered. Our walk ashore was curtailed when Simon got hit by a branch just above his eye. Lucinda and I went out on the kayaks and then read until drink time. Once again BBQ at anchor in a wonderful location.

Thursday 15th November

We left early at 07:30 determined to make some distance south. The forecast north easterly wind never materialised so we motored. The tide was with us creating scary overfalls as it helped us on our way. We got to Whitehaven Beach shortly before 10am. We motored ashore and the swimmers put on their stinger suits and went into the water. Back on the boat we motored round the corner and anchored in Chance Bay. We covered 20.85nm in total. We took the dinghy to the beach and walked back across the point to Whitehaven and looked at the tourists getting back on their boat. . BBQ steak for supper and another bottle (or two) bites the dust.

Wednesday 14th November

Early this morning there was a total eclipse of the sun further north near Cairns. We did look but the sun seemed normal to us. The winds were a bit lighter today, 15-20knts. We had a downwind sail north and picked a buoy off Langford Island. We were off a sand spit which we landed on, put on our stinger suits and went snorkelling. We then sailed round Hayman Island on our way to Maureen's Cove on Hook Island. After hanging around for 45 minutes we managed to get a buoy vacated by a dive boat. Our total was 21.5nm covered. After a trip ashore walking along the dead coral it was back to the boat for wine and spag bol.

Tuesday 13th November

We weighed anchor shortly after 8am and had a downwind sail in 25knts of wind for 7nm into Macona Inlet. Simon cooked a magnificent brunch and Robyn and I went kayaking. At noon we motored 4.9nm round the corner to Nara Inlet where we anchored among a cluster of other boats. We took the dinghy ashore and walked to the Ngara Cultural Site which gave information about the Whitsunday aborigines. The evening concluded with another BBQ and the usual alcohol.

Monday 12th November

We spent a somewhat unpleasant night in dreary Funnel bay. Relieved the anchor held as it was windy and there was an offshore chop. We briefly considered sailing but the wind was 25 to 35 knots blowing more or less from where we wanted to go. We therefore motored with the twin outboards doing a splendid job of pushing us through the steep seas in the Whitsunday Passage. On the way we passed through "Unsafe Passage" (honest). We finally anchored in CID Harbour. The 13nm took us 3.5hr. We read and relaxed before going ashore for a walk. Fish cooked on the BBQ was tonight's supper.

Sunday 11th November

We started our briefing after breakfast. We then had to go to the shops again. By the time we were ready and signed off it was too late to sail across Whitsunday Passage so we had a short sail and anchored in Funnel Bay on the mainland not far from the marina. The windy was gusty up to 25 knts. Simon and Robyn donned their stinger suits and had a swim and Simon launched a kayak. Supper and wine on board watching the sunset on our first night.

Saturday 10th November

We were awake all night waiting for the alarms to rouse us. Ten minutes after we got up all three alarms went off. A propellor plane took us to Hamilton Island and a ferry from the airport took us to Abel Point marina. By noon we were on our boat, a Seawind 1000XL called Lulu. We went off shopping and were back in time to meet Simon and Robyn who had flown up from Sydney. We had our first drinks on board and had 2 for 1 pizzas. And so to bed.

Friday 9th November

When we woke we could see we were in the middle of the rain forest. After breakfast we hiked alongside the Mossman River up to Fig Tree Rapids and back. We then drove north to the Daintree River and took an eco electric boat tour and saw salt water crocs and learned about the mangrove. After taking a cable ferry across the river we drove to a lookout, had an ice cream and drove back to Cairns. We had asked for a budget airport hotel. They gave us a flat complete with kitchen, living room and washing machine. We're now half way through the trip.

Thursday 8th November

We had a leisurely morning before catching the afternoon flight to Cairns. I drove the hire car 90 minutes north in the dark on a twisting road. We're staying in the rainforest. The restaurant is perched among high trees and lush vegetation above a river. Our personal treehouse on stilts has a bathroom with jacuzzi bath big enough to be a birthing pool. There is a balcony with hammock.

Wednesday 7th November

We had to get up to catch our 4:45am bus. The wake up call never came and the alarm didn't go off. I woke at 4:35 so we made to bus, just. It was sunrise over the Olgas and then a walk into a gorge before breakfast. Back in the hotel we read and then had a nap. Our next task was to make our evening sunset tour of the Rock itself. We did two short walks at the Rock and drove completely round it. We heard some of the mythology associated with Uluru before watching the sun go down while drinking fizzy wine. I'm the family photographer and my next book will feature Lucinda standing in front of things - Bondi beach, Sydney Opera House, a Wombat and a Kangaroo, Ayers Rock and so on.

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Tuesday 6th November

We walked into the centre of Alice. Despite an extremely rare rainstorm last night the Todd River was, as usual, completely dry. We looked around a small aboriginal museum where we discovered that married men have nothing to do with their mother-in-law. We were in the back row on our flight to Ayers Rock (Uluru) and could only see the engine out of our window. After checking into our hotel we walked to the centre and then tried without success to buy a bottle of wine. In the evening we went to the 'Sounds of Silence' dinner. This involved being bussed into the desert and watching the sunset. We then sat down at tables to the sound of the didgeridoo while waiting to be called to the buffet to choose our tucker. We then had an engaging lecture about the night sky before being bussed back. We met some nice people and there were three honeymoon couples on our table. An entertaining evening if not exactly authentic.

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Monday 5th November

The train trundled on through the night. It never goes fast and sometimes slows right down or stops. The scenery this morning was the same as when we went to bed and continued like that until we got to Alice. Breakfast was the full works. At every meal we've sat with different couple although the conversations mainly follow the same topics. We arrived in Alice just before 2pm local time.

We went straight on a tour from the station. First stop was the telegraph station which was the reason Alice exists. The telegraph went from Adelaide to Darwin and thence by sea cable to Indonesia and beyond. We visited the School of the Air which started using wireless to teach children in remote locations but has now gone digital. We donated a book to the school. We next learnt about the work of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. We then went across the road to a reptile centre and finished the tour with a visit to the ANZAC memorial. E're checked in and will eat in the hotel.

Sunday 4th November

After a light breakfast we checked out of our hotel and dropped off the hire car. We took a taxi to the station to check in for the Ghan train. This train goes from Adelaide to Darwin via Alice Springs. It's called the Ghan in honour of the pioneer cameleers who opened up the interior. Although they mainly came from the Middle East they were know as 'Afghans'. Our journey to Alice is 1559km and takes some 26 hours. We have our own compartment with 2 couchettes and a cubicle with fold down basin and toilet, and also a shower. Shortly after departure we had lunch in the Queen Adelaide restaurant as we were retracing the drive we made yesterday. The city rapidly gave way to the huge wheat fields and then the sparse red bush. From then in it was flat interminable bush with clusters of small shrubs broken by sparse trees. We sat for some of the time in the lounge car where we had drinks before supper in the dining car. When we returned to our compartment the bunks had been made up and we watched the sunset before turning in.

Saturday 3rd November

We checked out of our villa and drove a short way to the base of the gorge leading to Wilpena Pound. We walked up through the gorge and into the open area of the Pound before heading further up to the viewpoint. We then walked back down as the temperature rose. We decided to take the main highway back to Adelaide. It took about 90 minutes driving on deserted straight roads before the scrubby wasteland gave way to enormous wheat fields stretching to the horizon without any boundaries. The drive took 5 hours and it was only in the final 20 minutes that housing appeared and traffic built up. On the highway we came across 2 or 3 trailer road trains. We checked into the hotel and had a Thai meal.

Friday 2nd November

It was a 7am start today. After a short drive we began our walk on the slopes of Wilpena Pound. We learned about the extraordinary geology of the area. Most is a large anticline (upfold) which has eroded over millions of years. Layers of exposed rock at all angles show the way that the land was tilted and raised under pressure from 2 tectonic plates colliding. We saw vegetation including the white cypress pine, the mallee eucalyptus and spinifex plants. We then had a great bush breakfast the highlight of which was eggs fried in a hole cut from bread.

We had lunch in the villa before heading out for our afternoon 4WD tour. Our guide, Ian Carpenter, was superb. We drive through Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges. Ian explained the geology, pointed out interesting flora and had us spotting animals. We saw Red, Euro and Western Grey kangaroo and some Emu. The best were the rare Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies. The views were fantastic and the stop for tea and cake much appreciated.

We got back to the villa just in time to take delivery of our BBQ pack with steaks, sausages, salad, relishes and bread, with lemon pud to follow. We have a gas BBQ on the deck and enjoyed our meal washed down with local wine as the sun set over the surrounding hills.

Thursday 1st November

After another cooked breakfast we drove north to the Flinders Ranges. We left the vineyards behind and passed through wheat fields which seemed to have no boundary. There were a few low hills on the horizon. Our surrounds became more arid with scrubby vegetation. To start with there were 10km on the deserted roads between townships, then 20km, then 40km, then 70km. With a quick stop at a bakery it took us 5 hours to get to our destination. We are staying in an eco villa in Flinders Ranges national park. The scenery is stunning and the villa is amazing; large living room, fantastic bedroom with skylight open to the sky, a kitchen and even a washing machine and dryer. We have already taken a 30 minute flight in a light aircraft over the local landmark known as Wilpena Pound. It looks like a crater or volcano but it isn't. We showered, put the washing on and went to eat in the restaurant in the Rawnsley Park Station.